The Suit: The Icon That Defied Time

Today's fashion is a chaos of biblical proportions. At least, that is how I perceive it. Between people walking through the city center in slippers, wearing what looks like bedsheets, or sporting sandals without soles (just look at Guess), I struggle to understand fashion. Before, everything was simple: a pair of trousers was a pair of trousers and a t-shirt was a t-shirt. Now, everything must be questioned and changed, leaving me in a position where I go shopping and don't understand what I’m looking at. I am someone who loves clear and well-defined things.

Where did that instantly understandable fashion go? I’ll tell you where it went: into that niche of people who want to wear something classic, elegant, and comprehensible. Like myself. I want something reliably understandable—if it’s also elegant, even better.

What I was wondering, seeing the drama of modern fashion, is: does a garment exist that encapsulates simplicity, classicism, and elegance? The answer is yes. In fashion, there is a garment that has moved through history without ever losing its classic nature, its elegance, and its simplicity of being understood, transforming from a symbol of aristocratic glitz to a uniform of power, and eventually becoming an icon of gender rebellion.

Ladies and gentlemen, let’s talk about the suit and tie—the only outfit that has not only passed the test of time so far but has also transcended gender.

Let’s travel through time to discover the secrets of the "suit." This post will be a celebration, because the suit and tie is one of those choices that completely revolutionized everyday men’s fashion.

And how did this garment become the symbol of female empowerment?

The Suit: the Beginning.

Let’s start with a simple question: when was the concept of the suit and tie invented? A little historical context first.

Until the end of the 18th century, the aristocratic man was a triumph of silks, wigs, and flamboyant colors. You only need to observe a portrait of the era or a period film to realize how eccentric the 1700s were: it was the century of opulence, of appearing as a proof of social superiority. In that period, the distinction between a blacksmith and a nobleman was immediate; a quick glance at the fabrics was enough to know who was who.

But how did we move from Rococo lace to modern minimalism? It all started with the "Dandy Revolution." What is this revolution? It represents the crucial transition from a male aesthetic of exhibition to one of subtraction.

Why was less wanted? Something changed in society and the economy. Towards the end of that same century, the First Industrial Revolution changed human life forever. In an era where the gray of the smokestacks was obscuring the colors of inlays, the aristocratic style suddenly appeared outdated. We moved from artisan workshops to mass factory production, from an era of gold, carvings, and jewels (all handmade and personal) to something standard, cheap, and infinitely repeatable. It is in this context that, in 1794, the figure of George "Beau" Brummell emerged.

Brummell decided to create an elegance that was more sober and in line with the times. He replaced precious velvets and wigs with the discipline of sartorial tailoring and dark colors. Why sartorial tailoring? For two reasons.

First, the working class wore non-tailored clothes and did not have the economic means to afford handmade garments. Wearing a custom-made suit was a sign of belonging to social modernity while elevating oneself through detail.

Furthermore, elegance no longer had to "shout" through opulence but distinguished itself through the harmony of details, such as an artfully tied cravat. His style became a form of artistic resistance against industrial production: while machines began to produce everything the same, sacrificing quality and attention to detail, Brummell responded with the millimetric precision of his cravat—the symbol of a man reclaiming care for his image against the advance of the masses.

It was precisely at the turn of the century that a new code established itself in London: a dark blue jacket, long cream-colored trousers, and a starched white tie. This wasn't simple vanity, but a manic search for invisible perfection.

Unfortunately, Brummell died in disgrace and exile in 1840, but his movement did not stop; quite the opposite.

Dandyism moved to other nations, such as France, transforming from a simple way of dressing into a true philosophy of life. Jules Barbey d'Aurevilly wrote the essay "Of Dandyism and George Brummell" in 1845, defining the dandy as an individual who challenges society through their very existence, while Charles Baudelaire later went even further, defining the dandy as a heroic and decadent figure—the last resistance of human superiority against the advance of bourgeois and industrial vulgarity, made of identical clothes and people who had enriched themselves without any taste.

In the 1800s, dandyism overturned men's fashion, making it very rigid and uniform (reflecting industrial society): if you were rich, the frac was the evening suit and the redingote was the daytime suit. This lasted until the end of the century. With the Second Industrial Revolution on the horizon, something new was needed because the world was changing again, even radically (one example was the transition from steam to electricity). Around 1860, the Lounge Suit appeared: shorter than previous suits, without tails, initially intended for leisure time.

That very practical, but above all elegant, suit won the hearts of many men, quickly becoming the uniform of the new middle class—those sitting comfortably in offices, perfect for the progress taking place and the shift from manual laborers to "working intellectuals."

The 1900s: The Golden Century from Mods to the Power Suit.

If the 1800s were the start of the revolution, the 1900s were certainly the glorious rise of dandy minimalism. The concept of the suit and tie saw the outfit adapt to every cultural revolution, becoming the quintessential male suit. Let’s go in order, because there is much to say.

The 20s

In the 1920s, the men’s suit definitively left behind Victorian austerity and industrial revolutions to embrace the energy of the Jazz Age—the musical style that exploded in that decade. Furthermore, it was the decade of the "return to normalcy" after the Great War, but with a new desire for dynamism: jackets shortened and became more fitted, while trousers experienced the revolution of Oxford Bags—models with generous volumes born on British university campuses.

The real turning point, however, occurred in 1924, when Jesse Langsdorf patented the diagonal cut of the modern tie, allowing it to maintain its shape without rolling up; this technical detail, combined with the spread of "regimental" stripes and more vibrant geometric patterns, transformed the tie from a simple functional accessory into a symbol of cosmopolitan and modern optimism.

The 30s.

In the 1930s, the men’s suit lived through a true "golden age," distancing itself from the rigidity of previous decades to embrace an aesthetic of power and sophistication. It was the period of the London Cut, a style characterized by jackets with wide, padded shoulders, a narrower waist, and generous lapels that created the typical "hourglass" or "V" silhouette, designed to emphasize masculinity.

Trousers were worn with a very high waist, often with pleats and deep cuffs, while fabrics became heavier and more textured, like tweed or pinstripe. In this context, the tie stopped being a simple formal accessory to become a focal point of personal expression: knots became more voluminous and patterns more daring, ranging from Art Deco geometric motifs to stylized floral prints. It was the look made immortal by Hollywood cinema icons, capable of combining an almost architectural rigor with a new, bold elegance.

The 40s.

In the 1940s, the men’s suit was deeply shaped by the restrictions of the Second World War, giving life to an aesthetic of necessary austerity. Due to fabric rationing, jackets lost their waistcoats, trouser cuffs, and even superfluous pockets, becoming shorter and more linear to save every centimeter of cloth. However, precisely in this climate of deprivation, the Zoot Suit was born as a contrast: a suit of disproportionate and provocative dimensions adopted by jazz and African American subcultures as an act of political and social rebellion. The tie of this decade, often called the "Bold Look," became wider and shorter, decorated with bold prints and bright colors that served to break the gloom of military uniforms and reclaim a shred of individuality in a world dominated by conflict.

The 60s.

The 60s marked the definitive break with the past and the birth of youth fashion as a dominant force. The suit underwent a drastic slimming diet: under the influence of British Mod style and Italian tailoring, jackets became short, fitted, and with very narrow, almost thread-like lapels. It was the era of the "Revolutionary Slim": trousers became cigarette-style and shirts adopted small, stiff collars, often paired with thin ties (the legendary skinny ties) in black silk or with optical patterns typical of Pop Art. While the Beatles popularized this minimalist look worldwide, toward the end of the decade, bolder colors and less conventional fabrics like velvet began to appear, transforming the suit and tie from a "system uniform" into a tool for creative expression and aesthetic rebellion.

The 70s.

In the 1970s, the suit and tie lived through its most eccentric and experimental phase, influenced by the culture of expressive freedom and the explosion of Disco Music. Proportions were taken to the extreme: shirt collars lengthened into "dagger points," jacket lapels became enormous, and trousers adopted the famous bell-bottom line. It was the decade of the Kipper Tie, an extremely wide tie in psychedelic colors, often made of polyester or shiny synthetic fabrics that reflected the dance floor lights. Alongside traditional suits appeared the Leisure Suit, a more informal and less structured variant that allowed for the abandonment of sartorial rigor in favor of a flashy and relaxed aesthetic, marking the moment of maximum rupture with the classic sobriety of the past.

The 80s.

In the 1980s, the concept of the suit and tie underwent a monumental transformation, becoming the visual symbol of success and unbridled ambition: the era of the Power Suit was born. Under the influence of designers like Giorgio Armani, the jacket was completely redesigned to communicate authority: shoulders became enormous and squared thanks to generous padding, lapels became wide, and cuts more relaxed but imposing, designed to make the wearer appear larger and more dominant. It was the uniform of the Wall Street "Yuppies," often seen in pinstripe fabrics and paired with bold ties, characterized by thick knots and vibrant colors or abstract graphic patterns. Parallelly, thanks to TV series like Miami Vice, a more informal and revolutionary version also spread: the jacket worn over a simple T-shirt, strictly with rolled-up sleeves, which popularized a more relaxed elegance that was still oriented toward social status.

The 21st Century.

Today, the concept of the suit and tie is experiencing a phase of deep fragmentation and rediscovery. Work etiquette has changed immensely. One no longer needs a suit and tie to go to work (Steve Jobs never wore one, for example). Furthermore, remote working has freed man from the daily obligation of the suit in the office. This change has transformed the suit from an "imposed uniform" into a "conscious style choice."

The contemporary look moves on two parallel tracks. On one side, we have the New Formal: lines have returned to being natural, abandoning the exaggerations of the 80s. The focus is on technological, light, and breathable fabrics that allow for unprecedented freedom of movement. The tie is no longer an obligation, but when it is worn, it is often done with a touch of irony or with softer knots.

The other track is the Genderless Era. Perhaps the greatest revolution of today is the definitive breakdown of gender boundaries. The suit and tie has become a pillar of the female and non-binary wardrobe, no longer as an act of defiance (as in the 60s), but as a pure expression of aesthetics.

Speaking of women... The Jacket as an Act of Rebellion.

Women have always had a very problematic relationship with clothes, forced by a very conservative society to wear specific garments. Then began the struggles for gender and rights, and the battle was also fought in fashion. Not only the invention of the bikini, but the men's suit was also used. Wearing a suit and tie has never been just an aesthetic choice, but a political conquest.

In this sense, there are many examples in history, from George Sand, who dressed as a man to be heard in intellectual circles, to the Suffragettes, who used boxy jackets to communicate authority.

In the 30s, Marlene Dietrich scandalized the world by appearing in a tailcoat and top hat in the film Morocco, transforming a male garment into a tool of surprising and unprecedented seduction (a woman in a male suit is very beautiful to see).

In the 60s, a period of great changes and rebellions, Yves Saint Laurent—at the time a designer (not yet a brand)—launched Le Smoking, perfectly copying the male suit and adapting it to female needs. It was a shock: women were initially turned away from restaurants because they were wearing evening trousers instead of a skirt.

In the 80s, with women entering boardrooms and politics, there was a need to find an outfit that emanated power and authority. With Giorgio Armani’s Power Dressing, women entered corporate boardrooms with jackets that projected strength and independence. Now that idea of a suit has expanded, allowing the choice to wear trousers or skirts of different lengths, depending on personal taste or the occasion.

Why this immortal success?

Why, after over two centuries and infinite cultural revolutions, do we continue to choose the suit and the tie? The answer lies not just in fashion, but in the way this outfit makes us feel. A man in a suit and tie is a man of power. Maybe he isn't at all, but the suit gives that impression. Seen from the perspective of the wearer, it is a true modern "armor" that transforms anyone.

Who hasn't felt that immediate sense of security after adjusting their collar in front of the mirror? The secret of its success is precisely this magical balance: on one hand, it is a piece of fashion (and often high tailoring) that communicates authority and respect; on the other, it remains a space of freedom where a simple knot or a touch of color can tell who we really are. This is the true strength of the suit. Managing to make us feel part of a professional and rigorous world, without asking us to renounce our identity. It is elegance that doesn't shout, but speaks very clearly.

Small Reflections.

In 2026, where fashion seems to have lost its compass among excesses and indecipherable extravagances, the suit and tie remains the last safe harbor. It is not a nostalgic return to the past, but a choice of freedom: the freedom not to be dragged along by the chaos of fleeting trends and to wear an elegance that needs no explanation.

While everything around changes, decomposes, and recreates itself, the suit and tie remain there, imperturbable, reminding us that simplicity is the ultimate form of sophistication. Because ultimately, the true revolution today is not dressing strangely to get noticed, but dressing well to be remembered.

M.